an accomodation and book it! !!!
Visa Mastercard ATM issue : see Money
!!! Yen rate, see Budget !!!
!! Miyazaki's maps adapted in
English (David Moreton, Naoyuki Matsushita) !!
You can order it from David Moreton
(Japan, 1600¥, port 600¥) or David Turkington
11$, port 14.24$ to Europe, 12.13$ to Canada) through Paypal
secure credit card
telephone numbers directly on the map, in purple.
Book and maps include English (purple) and
Japanese (green) names
of accomodations and other sites, so you can ask your way showing the
book to japanese people.
The information of these maps comes from the Japanese Tateki MIYAZAKI's
(宮崎 建樹) classic map book:
"Shikoku henro hitori aruki dougyou ninin"
in Japan, and
in all types of accomodation, the price is per person,
whatever the number of occupants of the room. One person 4000 yens, 2
people 8000 yens, 3 people 12000 yens, etc... for the same room!
Sometimes a light reduction, it would be perhaps 10000 or 11000 yens
for three. No interest to share a room, from the financial point
of view. Lodgers seldom proposes to gaijins (foreign) to share a room
Various types of accomodation
かん) Ryokan = traditional
Japanese inn with tatami rooms, futons, bath, evening meal and
breakfast included. The addresses of the book are about 6500 yens for
room, bath and 2 meals, and the difference between ryokan and minshuku
is not always obvious at the bottom of Shikoku. Japanese unisex
bath "ofuro" or with schedule by sex and WC at the end of the
corridor are the rule if the price is low.
2. 民宿 (みんしゅく)
family inn, but ryokan-like. You make your futon yourself
and arrange it the morning. Price sometimes a little lower
ryokan, around 6000 yens for room, bath and 2 meals. Japanese bath '
ofuro "with schedule for each sex and WC at the end of the corridor.
In the ryokans and
minshukus, it is sometimes possible to have the room without meal
cheaper, but it
is not the rule.
= temple accomodation. like the minshuku,
but in a
temple. Early wake-up for prayer (not compulsory). Certain temples have
officially a shukubou, they are in the directory or on the website
below. Others can sometimes
give you an accomodation if you got trouble, but don't count on it.
You will find the list of temples with shukubous on the
following Japanese site: Temples
ス ホテル Business
hotel = a kind of cheap hotel like "Etap hotel"
or "Formule 1" in
Europe, mostly near of the station, sometimes along the roads. Single
ou double with shower and WC between 4000 and 7000 yens, without meals.
Tobacco's odor is the rule. Some have western beds, other are with
tatami and futons.
5. Free pilgrim accomodation
An essential website for free or cheap accomodations along the 88 temple's Way: Henro revisited (88again.weebly)
in the temples
or Zenninyado 善人宿
free acccomodations for walking pilgrims.
Often rustic, sometimes simple open-air huts Henrokoya 遍路小屋
a lot of well organized camping sites.
stands without stakes) : you can setup the tent in small shrine's
corners, inside open huts or houses or near Michi-no-Eki, on concrete floors, ... or
even outside with stakes!
= as in Europe, but find out how much is the price at the reservation.
Often more expensive, but if they are in the directory, they
either cheap, or they have budget rooms for aruki henros (walkers).
= state ryokan, cheap and often well
situated (only 4 in Shikoku).
= Youth hostel, no age limit, also without youth
Unisex 6 persons dormitory. Family rooms for couples. About 3200 per
bed without meal.
You can book in advance , but also on the same day.
call to book! It's not the done thing in Japan to arrive without
reservation (call, even if it is from the nearest callbox), excepted
for business hotels, where they have no meals to prepare. If
you come without booking, you risk a refusal like "it's day off!", even
if you see a lot of people behind! He will not say No! He
mocking you. It is the Japanese courtesy, nobody will lose
everybody knows it is not true, but it is the devoted formula when he
does not want to take you. It is absolutely useless to insist, he will
not reconsider his decision!
japanese hotel keepers are afraid not to know what to do with strangers
they don't eat japanese food, don't know how to use japanese bath, or
speak loudly in the paper-walled rooms. So sometimes they prefer to
refuse them, but if you speak a little japanese, or if you are
henro (more: a aruki henro), all doors are open!
you don't speak japanese, ask a henro or your lodger to book for you.
him the next charts:
suru dekimasu ka?
||Can you book?
ga, yoyaku shite
|Excuse me please, but couldn't you book
a room for me?
||The day after tomorrow
||How much is it?
|One night ?
tsuki desu ka
||With 2 meals?
de la semaine
||月曜日 げつようび getsu youbi
||火曜日 かようび ka youbi
||水曜日 すいようび sui youbi
||木曜日 もくようび moku youbi
||金曜日 きにょうび kin youbi
||土曜日 どようび do youbi
||日曜日 にちようび nichi youbi
Days of the month,
the first ten in japanese, then in chinese, excepted for 14,
20 et 24.
et muika, yokka
et youka, can be a source of mistake if the pronunciation
||jū hachi nichi
||jū ku nichi
||hatsuka (ou nijūnichi)
||ni jū ichi nichi
||ni jû ni
||ni jū san nichi
||ni jū yok'ka
||ni jū go nichi
||ni jū roku nichi
||jū ichi nichi
||ni jū shichi nichi
||jū ni nichi
||ni jū hachi nichi
||jū san nichi
||ni jū ku nichi
||san jū nichi
||jū go nichi
||san jū ichi nichi
||jū roku nichi
Japanese hotels count "1 night,
2 days" if you arrive in the evening and leave in the morning.
could mean half-board in the ryokan and minshuku, but you can hear
that also in business hotels where there is no food. No
will not pay for 2 days!
night, 2 days
nights, 3 days
nights, 4 days
Arriving at the accomodation
Japaneses live from 6
a.m. to 6 p.m., especially in the countryside. You'll have to leave
early in the morning to arrive imperatively at the stage before 5 p.m.
An arrival after 5 p.m. disturbs the hotel keeper, because it is
necessary that you take your bath before the meal which will be at 6
p.m., but sometimes at 17h30.
Remove your shoes at the
entrance, place them in the rays, and go up then on
the wooden part with the provided slippers. If there is nobody, call:
front clerk will take you to your room: remove the
before stepping on the tatami, where you can walk only barefoot or with
socks. You will find a plate with a cloth, a towel and often a yukata,
kind of kimono-pyjamas to go around in the hotel, to go to the bath or
even to eat and walk in the street (but nowadays that's really naff!).
See if there are others doing that before going out of the hotel with
it. If the weather is cold, there will be also a tanzen, waistcoat to
be crossed over.
The hour of the bath will be then strongly indicated to you. "Ofuro?"
"Ofuro wa goji desu" the bath is at 5 a.m.! In the minshukus and
small ryokans, men and women have separated schedules in the
same bath, therefore it is imperative that you take the bath at the
appointed time (He has perhaps just created a time crenel especially so
that the foreigner is alone in the bath). Caution, the bathroom is not
always accessible the morning, and in any event, there will be
only cold water.
On the japanese style WC, stand over the toilet stool facing the side
with the hood (facing the tap), as
you will drive a scooter!
first you enter a room where you put all your clothes out, and put them
in baskets or raks. Then you enter the ofuro room, with your towel
hiding your sex if there are other people in the bath. On one side are
faucets or showers. Sit on a lilliputian stool and wash yourself facing
When you are cleaned and
rinsed, you can go in the hot bath, alone or with others. No soap in
the bath! It will be very warm (40 - 42 degrés C, 104 - 107
Very relaxing after a walking day. If you are alone, don't empty the
bath out when you're getting out.
In ryokans, the meal will be
perhaps served in your room during your bath, or they will bring it
later. But in most cases on the Shikoku trail, you'll eat with the
other henros. When you'll return to your room, the futon will be ready.
In minshukus, small ryokans and
business hotels you install the futon yourself, and put it back in the
cupboard oshiire 押し入れ (おしいれ). You will find in the cupboard or in the
middle of the room: matress, over-matress, quilt and pillow. The sheet
you found in the room is a bottom sheet..
In the toilets, you'll have to put on special toilet slippers, often
レ. Shame if you go out of the toilet with it!
|Toilets ("hand +
problem, there is food everywhere. If you eat dinner and breakfast at
the ryokan, you don't need to carry a lot of food in your rucksack:
there are small restaurants which give udon うどん, ramen ラメン, or sobas
そば bowls for 400 to 700 yens.
In Japan, if there is a menu
(Teishoku 定食 てししょく) or a set (セット), what has been decided
will not change! Don't try to have rice instead of soba or
shrimps instead of fish, you will be exhausted before he changes
There are a lot of konbini (convenience store)
in the villages to buy your picnic. 7-Eleven, K-Circle, AmPm, Lawson,
are vending machines everywhere, even on the countryside, so you have
not to carry a lot of water in your rucksack. You'll find coffee コー
ヒー cans, cold 冷たい (つめたい) or warm 暖かい (あたたかい) and sweat drinks to offset
the losses from sweating, useful in summer: Pocari
Sweat, Aquarius, Dakara. 120 ¥ per can.
In most of the housing
you can do your laundry. Japanese washing machines wash with
Dryers are generally very weak, thus you can dry more fragile linen
that at home.
|洗濯 する できます か.
dekimasu ka ?
||Can I do my laundry ?
|洗濯機 が あります か.
||Sentakuki ga arimasu
||Have you a washing
|洗剤 が あります か.
||Senzai ga arimasu ka
some washing powder?
|乾燥機 が あります か.
||Kansouki ga arimasu
||Have you a dryer?
Japan, people pay all in cash, it is then necessary to
you would not carry in Europe or in the States, but the country is very
safe. On the other hand, it is almost impossible to withdraw money in
the banks in Shikoku out of the big cities, and the ATM don't
take foreign credit cards, therefore read the Money page
Look at the telephone page (french):
Internet and WIFI
Do not forget to
deactivate the data roaming on your mobile!
( 15,50 euros / Mb, yes MEGAbyte,
not Giga!! 100 Mb = 1550€, 1 Giga
Wifi comes slowly in Shikoku. You will see WiFi
panels(signs) (Softbank especially) but they are for their subscribers.
In Shikoku free WiFi points are rare, and always in town, McDo,
Wifi Hotspots in Japan Map
Hotels and business hotels are hardwired and you will find a LAN socket (Ethernet RJ45) on the wall or at the bottom of the TV modem.
you have a laptop computer, take simply an Ethernet RJ45 cable.
If you have a tablet or a smartphone, you need a WIFI router to connect on the LAN socket.
Ask the lobby or buy a TP-Link nanorouter to create your own WIFI transmitter.
to take the train or the bus, look at the train page
How to take train and bus
Notice: there is a new train line between Nahari and Kochi, often not
yet on the maps
need "International driving permit" to rent a car in Japan.
Caution, French, Swiss, German (and some other) driving licence are not
accepted. Look in the
french page of this site if you are concerned.
other countries, ask the japanese embassy before departure to be sure!
(no return website, type my address again)
that, it's easy to rent a car, even for 6 hours in stations (Ekiren),
offices and others.
cost of medicine in Japan is about the same than in the US, so you must
have a very good insurance and assistance.
In case of emergency:
(kyukyusha 救急車 きゅきゅしゃ): 119
There are pharmacies everywhere.
Some medicines are forbidden in Japan, even with a prescription!
Codeine, ephedrine for exemple, that you can perhaps buy freely at the
drugstore at home are considered as drugs in Japan. Don't go in jail
for a cold!